Wednesday, February 27, 2008

BREAKING THE BUCKHEAD MOLD

I travel on my own almost constantly these days; traversing the country working everywhere from small towns to large cities. During these trips I usually end the day having dinner in a local bar, grill, bistro, or in many cases – a hotel dining room by myself. Since I usually do not want to take up an entire table, the bar seems to be the natural place to dine. It certainly beats sitting at an empty table alone. As a result, I have become quite an authority on dining at the bar. Unfortunately, many bartenders have difficulty with my choice; they seem to think that the bar is intended for drinking and not for dining. As a result, I often feel that both my meals and the service from the bar get a little bit “short changed”.

I recently had a refreshing break from this routine at a restaurant in Atlanta called JCT. Kitchen and Bar (said like “Junction” Kitchen and Bar). The restaurant is situated in a former meat packing district which is part of the Westside Urban Market, located in the Western Atlanta suburbs down by the train tracks. JCT Kitchen and Bar has great live music on Fridays and Saturdays, indoor and outdoor seating, and features extraordinary views of the Atlanta skyline up on the roof.

The best thing of all, however, is their food. Their menu is not the standard parade of burgers, wings and things that you get at many local bistros. JCT. blends a French bistro sensibility with the flavors and textures of the old favorites of modern Southern cuisine. Menu items include such things as a wonderful grilled cheese sampler with caramelized onions and wild mushrooms, aged and blue vein cheeses. They also serve an airy “cloud like” potato gnocchi with an intense veal jus and fresh herbs. Another plate consists of wafer thin country ham with fiery mustards, assorted "little pickles", and rustic breads. If you'd like to break the conventional Atlanta Buckhead mold, check out JCTkitchen.com.

Photograph by Gail Des Jardin